Window Trim Update: A Simple DIY for Anyone (No Power Tools Required!)
If you're still rocking those basic window trims (like mine from the late 80s), let me tell you—updating them to a more modern Craftsman-style trim makes a huge difference! I have done this in every home that I’ve owned and just recently tackled this project in our current living room. The results speak for themselves. It gave the room such a polished, fresh look, and the best part? You can totally do this—even if you don’t own a single power tool! Here’s how:
Step 1: Measure For Your New Trim
First up, lets measure for your new Craftsman-style trim. Here’s how to measure each piece with an image of a previous craftsman treatment I did in my first house to show the parts of the casing that you may read about later in this blog:
Side casings: Measure the inside height of your window from top to bottom. This is the length of your side pieces.
Top and bottom casings: Measure the width of your window (inside edge to inside edge) and add 6 to 8 inches to that measurement. The extra length accounts for the overhang on each side of the window. I went with 8 inches for a little extra drama!
Once you’ve got those measurements, you can either head to your local home improvement store.
Step 2: Gather Materials
Here’s what we used for our new trim, and you'll likely find all of these at your local hardware store:
Don’t forget, if you don’t have access to a saw at home, the store staff can cut your trim to the perfect size for you (just be sure to keep track of how many boards you purchased for the cashier at the counter). Or, if you’re feeling brave, use the trim cutting station most stores offer to cut the pieces yourself. Either way, you’re in good shape!.
Remember that you can rent a brad nail gun from the tool rental section if you want to speed things up. If not, no worries! You can absolutely complete this project with a hammer and finishing nails.
Step 3: Remove the Old Trim
Now out with the old! Removing your outdated trim is super simple:
Use a utility knife to cut along the edges where the trim meets the wall. This will score any existing caulking and will help avoid damaging the drywall.
Use a flathead screwdriver or pry bar (this one is my absolute FAVORITE) to carefully pop the old trim off. It may take a little patience, but once it starts coming loose, the rest will come off easily.
Don't worry about small dents or dings in the wall—once the new trim is up, caulk will hide those imperfections like a charm!
Step 4: Install the New Trim
Once your boards are cut and you're ready to go, it’s time to put up the new trim!
Start with the side casings. Line up the 1x3s along the sides of your window, making sure they’re level. If you're using a brad nail gun, this will go super fast. Just shoot a few nails into the studs behind the drywall. If you’re using a hammer and finishing nails, it will take a little more time, but it works just as well.
Add the 1x2 on the top and bottom of the 1x6. This adds dimension and creates a nice ledge on both sides of the header. Attach it with nails or your brad nail gun. It’s best to assemble the header and the 1x2 top sill and 1x2 top crown prior to nailing the entire thing up above the window. This is a best practice for ensuring that the “horn” on each side of the top header is equal on both sides.
Add the top and bottom casings. Your 1x6 Header sandwiched between your Top Sill and the Crown piece goes at the top of the window, while your 1x4 goes at the bottom (the apron) - it should be installed centered under the lower window sill.
Step 5: Finishing Touches
Now for the fun part—finishing your trim!
Caulk any gaps: Grab your tube of caulk and fill in any small gaps or seams between the boards and the wall. This gives everything a clean, seamless look.
Paint it up! Once the caulk is dry, it’s time to paint! I used Behr Satin Trim Paint, which has a nice sheen but isn’t too shiny. Use a shortcut paintbrush for better control around the edges.
And that’s it! You’ve got yourself a brand-new, modern, and polished Craftsman-style window trim.
Final Thoughts
This update may seem small, but it makes such a big impact in any room. If you’re intimidated by the idea of tackling a DIY like this, don’t be! Even if you don’t have power tools at home, your local hardware store can help you get everything cut to size, and using a hammer and nails works just as well as a nail gun.
So, what are you waiting for? Grab some trim, take those measurements, and get ready to transform your space! You’ve got this!
FAQs
1. Am I going to mess up the insulation of the window by updating the inside trim/casing?
Nope! The inside trim or casing is more decorative than structural, so replacing it won’t affect your window’s insulation at all. The insulation comes from the window itself and the seal around it. Just make sure you're not disturbing the window frame or caulking directly around the glass, and you’ll be all set!
2. How long does it take to complete this project?
From removing the old trim to installing the new and painting, you can realistically knock this out in a few hours per window. The biggest chunk of time will be spent waiting for caulk and paint to dry, but the actual installation can take less than an hours once the boards are cut. When I came back from my home improvment store with cut boards and all materials needed, it only took me one hour to demo, install, caulk, and paint. And this was mostly because I had to wait for 30 minutes for the caulk to dry before painting.
3. What kind of wood should I use for the trim?
I used primed pine boards for this project because they’re pre-prepped and ready for paint. Using primed wood saves you the step of sanding and sealing the boards before painting and ensures a smooth, professional-looking finish. If your store doesn’t have primed boards (or if you want to save a few extra bucks), standard pine or MDF also work well—you’ll just need to sand well, apply a coat of primer, and repeat before painting.
4. What size should I make the overhang on the top casing?
For that classic Craftsman look, you can add about 6 to 8 inches to the width of the window for the top and bottom casings. This builds what’s called a “horn” to extend beyond the sides of the window at the top and bottom, giving it a more substantial, polished appearance. You can go for 6 inches for a more subtle look (which allows for a 1/2 inch horn on each side of the top and bottom sill) or 8 inches for something a bit more dramatic (which allows for one and a half inch horn on each side of the top and bottom sill). Because my bottom sill was already about three-fourths of an inch outside of the 1x3 side-boards, I added 3/4” times two to the length of my top sill and crown to match the bottom sill. I did the same in our master bath soon after we moved in (see below image).
5. How do I read window sizes when they are written in codes like 2036?
Great question! Window sizes written in codes like 2036 actually tell you the dimensions of the window in feet and inches. Here's how to read it:
The first two digits represent the width of the window.
The last two digits represent the height.
So, a window labeled 2036 means it is 2 feet 0 inches wide and 3 feet 6 inches tall. If you see a code like 3050, that would be a window that is 3 feet wide and 5 feet tall. It’s a quick shorthand for window dimensions that’ll come in handy when measuring for your trim!
